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Scallion pancakes are one of my favorite Chinese staples. They are tasty enough to stand on their own. . . or can be the perfect vessel for a pile of awesomely delicious drunken chicken, mustard slaw, house-made hoisin sauce, and “pork cracklin,” as offered as an occasional special at Toki Underground, which is up for “best new restaurant” in WaPo’s Going Out Guru’s non-scientific poll.

At home, a go-to quick and easy solo-girl meal consists of steamed frozen dumplings and pan-heated (hold the oil) frozen scallion pancake. Not all frozen scallion pancakes are created equal, and I only buy I MEI’s version: